Gangarampur (WB): In the 1970s, thousands of refugees crossed the border and made West Dinajpur their home post Bangladesh Liberation War. But life was not easy for them as none had any means of livelihood. The refugee population then chose the loom to weave their dreams and that gave birth to a textile industry that soon went on to define Gangarampur’s identity.
Places in and around Basakpara, Dattapara, Bhodangpara and Schoolpara echoed the rhythmic clatter of handlooms as over 30,000 weavers worked in harmony, weaving colourful yet affordable sarees that were much sought after. Gangarampur thus became an identity for its people, culture, and pride.
Now, five decades later, the looms have fallen silent, while weavers and the craft seem to be fading into oblivion.
The houses which were home to the artistry now remain closed or repurposed. From 30,000 workers, now hardly 150 to 200 continue to work in the entire region. They too are not sure for how long they can continue to hold on to the legacy.
In a bid to revive the dying art, the West Bengal government set up a multi-crore Tant (loom) hub in Thangapara on February 24, 2019 but six years later, the hub remains deserted. Neither all the weavers go there nor the buyers.
“The problem was in the location. It was isolated, poorly connected, and far from where weavers live. Traders do not go the area, and even locals rarely stop by. The weavers colony is six km away and there are no buses which have a stoppage at Thangapara,” says Bidyut Sarkar, in charge of the Tant hub.
The government tried to promote it in its own way - banners, festoons, and an initial stock of goods, but the sales were disappointing. “We had to send the goods back to Kolkata. And in the past three years, the centre has not produced anything new, except a few government-commissioned clothes,” Sarkar adds.
For the weavers, the hub was initially a reason of cheer as it promised access to cheaper yarn, design facilities, and a dyeing section. But none of it materialised.
“We were promised of yarn at subsidised prices and the hub could be our lifeline for years to come. But nothing of that sort happened. We were left out. The hub operates with a handful of members and a majority of us are not even a part of it. Only those who are members are given yarn at government price. The purpose of creating that hub has been defeated,” says Subrata Basak, one of the weavers who has been rendered jobless.
The disillusionment Basak has, is also shared by many of his ilk. “Weavers were forced to shut down their looms because they would become a part of the handloom hub. But contrarily, some became labourers, others started small shops. Without government support or proper infrastructure, we have no future,” adds another artisan Madan Basak.
The hub is a two-storied structure with a showroom below and a few rooms upstairs, which are mostly vacant with hardly any activity taking place. Only 10–12 weavers work in a few rooms producing little and earning even less.
Gangarampur’s weaving industry started collapsing in the early 2000s, when power loom sarees from Gujarat and Maharashtra flooded the markets. They were cheaper, mass-produced and quickly won over the masses in comparison to Gangarampur’s handmade offerings.
“Those sarees were priced at Rs 200 – Rs 250, while the handwoven ones here cost at least Rs 700 to produce. So obviously consumers chose the cheaper ones and we lost our market slowly,” explains Ramgopal Biswas, Secretary of the South Dinajpur District Handloom Owners’ Protection Association.
In 2011, the association started a movement to revive the industry and as a part of it, submitted proposals to the government, which finally led to the establishment of the Tant hub. But, Biswas feels, there were loopholes in the execution. “The hub was built without even consulting us, who could have given some important inputs. No dyeing unit, no yarn bank, no design centre. There was no solid plan,” he adds.
Blaming the ruling party for the failure of the hub, local BJP MLA Satyendranath Roy said the government 'abandoned' the weavers. “Some of the finest sarees were being woven here and competition was fierce. That was the reason the industry thrived here. But today there is no hope. The hub seems to be ghost project and even the ministers don’t care because they wont gain anything politically by helping poor artisans.”
Trinamool Congress district president Subhash Bhawal admits the project’s shortcomings but assures of a turnaround. “Sales have remained stagnant. But we are planning a handicrafts fair in Gangarampur to give artisans a platform.”
This statement, however, did not augur well for the weavers who said, “If a fair could shape our future, we have nothing to say. An industry that supported thousands cannot be revived with one-day exhibitions,” a weaver retorted.
The loom has remained a piece of history and narrates story of heritage and heartbreak. Gangarampur’s weavers feel forgotten as there is none to bail them out of misery. With no robust infrastructure or support, they feel, they have been relegated to the pages of the past. “Soon, people will read about Gangarampur and its weavers in history books. But when people will realise what has been lost in the process, there will be no way to revive the industry which is more of heritage,” said a weary artisan.
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