It Takes A Month to Weave, But A Day to Print: Existential Angst Of Sambalpuri Saree Weavers
Artisans of Karadola who spin intricate Sambalpuri sarees, open up before ETV Bharat's Badsah Jusman Rana about their struggle, as machine-made replicas flood markets.
Published : February 6, 2025 at 7:46 PM IST
Sambalpur (Odisha) : The rhythmic clatter of handlooms has been turning fainter in Karadola village of Dhanakauda block in Sambalpur each passing day. Home to about 40 families who have shared their heartbeat with the rhythm of the loom since ages, the weavers are in a plight as sustenance through their generational profession has become difficult.
When this reporter stepped into the village to meet the artisans and see their artistry, most people seemed disinterested even to share their stories. Each family member of Krutartha Meher, one of the most efficient and popular weavers, capable of spinning masterpieces that require patience, precision, and love, was at the loom ready to work for the whole day.
Separating the threads and arranging the warp and weft, they were translating the pattern from the paper to the loom with rapt attention, for, a simple deviation would affect the entire saree. Sitting next to them and watching the grind behind the weaves answered the question - why the handwoven Sambalpuri sarees are priced high.
Prodding a little, Ritu Meher, gave a wry smile and pointed at the loom. "This is where the masterpieces are made, one thread at a time. We bring white yarn and colour it and then add it to the loom.” It takes an entire month to complete a single Sambalpuri saree. The designs of elephants, horses, and flowers are not printed, they are woven into the fabric with painstaking movement of our hands and threads are then bound in patterns with much difficulty, she mumbled. "But when you come here to buy, this five and half metre masterpiece item which should cost somewhere between Rs 5000 and Rs 7000, seems expensive to you. Imagine the gruel and compare it to block printed sarees that sell at Rs 200 or Rs 300,” she said.
Sought after globally, the Sambalpuri handwoven sarees are known for their craftsmanship. But the makers are facing a situation where machine-printed imitations are scoring over. A genuine handwoven saree, which takes weeks to create, costs at least Rs 5,000, while a printed version mimicking the same design is sold at as low as Rs 300 and are available dime a dozen.
The Struggle of a Dying Craft
Once-thriving, villages like Kardola are seeing artisans abandoning their looms in search of alternative livelihoods. The money the weavers earn is pretty less given that their families depend completely on it. “We used to sell directly to traders and had the capability to demand price. But now it is the opposite. We have to chase them to buy our sarees. Even when they take our products, the payments are delayed for months, making it impossible for us to run our households," says Krutartha Meher.
He explains how they have to pay GST on threads and then there is the tax again while selling the saree. How can we afford to continue the art, he questions.
Imposing GST twice, once on the yarn and dyes and also on the finished sarees increases production costs. On the other hand, the online shopping platforms—where GST is not strictly enforced—are flooding the market with cheap, mass-produced sarees, further aggravating the pain of traditional weavers.
“The cost of making a Sambalpuri saree is already high,” said Sanjay Meher, a textile trader from Sambalpur. “A weaver spends nearly Rs 1,000 on yarn alone. When you add the cost of dyes, labour, and design, a saree ends up costing Rs 6,000 minimum. But since customers are finding lookalike sarees online for a lesser price, they do not come to retailers to buy one, even though they are ready to compromise on authenticity. Our sales have dropped by nearly 50%,” Meher informed.
Fading Dreams, Abandoned Looms
The hardship is forcing many weavers to give up the profession that has been their sole means of sustenance for generations. “We have no land, no farming—our lives revolve around weaving,” says Brundaban Meher, another weaver from the village. “This business feeds our families, pays for our children’s schooling, and covers medical expenses. But when customers choose printed sarees over our handwoven ones, we are left shattered.”
The dire situation has driven away the younger generation from the loom. With an uncertain future, they prefer doing some other business which can fend for their family, said Soudamini, who comes forward to have a chat. “Why would our children sit at a loom for an entire month when they can earn more money working in a factory or driving an auto?” asked she. “They have seen us toil and they don’t want the same life,” Soudamini added.
Some families have already migrated to nearby towns, seeking alternative work. Others are barely holding on, hoping for a revival. But with declining sales and mounting debts, hope for most artisans is fading fast.
A Cry for Help
Sambalpur District Administration, however, is positive about the handlooms. Speaking on the training programmes initiated to introduce new designs and improve marketing strategies, Sambalpur District Collector Siddheshwar Baliram Bondar said, “We have appointed a master trainer in Karadola to teach weavers about contemporary trends. We are also working on setting up a training centre in the village.”
These efforts alone may not be enough, feel the weavers who rather demand stricter regulations on fake Sambalpuri sarees, financial support to offset GST costs, and better access to markets.
“Sambalpuri sarees are not just fabric; they are our life, art, heritage, and the soul,” says Ritu. Most weavers opined that the art of crafting handloom sarees will die with this generation. "We don’t want charity—we want fair prices and respect for our craft," they said in unison.
As the weavers dispersed after the conversation, the sound of the loom in Ritu Meher's house once again echoed like all other looms in the village and family members got into playing magic with the threads.
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