New Life, Renewed Hope: Berhampur Silk Makes A Comeback As Youth Drive Revival Efforts In Odisha
Revival efforts, youth-driven fashion experiments and policy support are slowly bringing Berhampur silk back into focus, offering hope to struggling weavers, reports Samir Kumar Acharya.
Published : April 17, 2026 at 5:32 PM IST
Berhampur: Known as Silk City, once synonymous with the rhythmic hum of looms, Berhampur silk is finding its way back into conversations, wardrobes and aspirations of a new generation.
Amid growing concerns of a near-extinction of the craft due to systemic lacunae and weavers' dilemma, the fresh inclination of young masses for Berhampur silk has come as a breather not only for the community but for culture conservationists. Berhampur’s handwoven silk once enjoyed wide recognition across India and abroad. But over the years, dwindling demand, limited promotion and shrinking financial returns pushed many traditional weaver families away from their ancestral occupation.
The number of looms, once close to 500, has now reduced to nearly 50, raising concerns about the future of this heritage craft.
However, now efforts to revive Berhampur silk have begun taking pace. The administration in Ganjam district, along with elected representatives, is working on a blueprint to to re-engage weavers by introducing new skills and techniques into the craft, while also strengthening their livelihoods. Some work already in place has started showing results on fashion ramps and cultural platforms.
Designers and young creators are reinterpreting traditional silk into contemporary designs. From sarees to modern silhouettes, Berhampur silk is being showcased at events like Lavanya and the Silk City Festival, where youth participation has been anything but impressive. The fabric, once confined largely to ceremonial use, is now being repositioned as a versatile fashion statement.
Tunkel Gamang of Tunkel Fashion Academy says this shift was delayed but intentional. “There was a time when silk was widely used in Berhampur. But the present generation moved away from it. Now, tradition with modern fashion are blending like never before. Our designers are experimenting with new designs using Berhampur silk and models are walking the ramp with the latest innovations,” he says, adding that the idea is to reconnect with cultural roots while giving the fabric a contemporary identity.
Makeup artist Monalisa Behera, who worked behind the scenes of these showcases, points out that styling plays a key role in presenting silk differently. "With Berhampur silk, there are options galore because of a wide range of colours and patterns," she adds.
Model Shereina Jennifer echoes the sentiment, saying, "The effort is also about encouraging people to wear Berhampur silk more often and take pride in Odia heritage."
Cultural researcher Hrushikesh Panigrahi places the fabric in a larger historical context. “Across India, silk holds cultural and ritual importance. But Berhampur silk stands out for its texture and sheen,” he says. With a history of over 500 years, the fabric has been closely linked to temple traditions, including offerings to Lord Jagannath and has long been used in classical Odissi dance costumes. There are historical evidences that Berhampur silk was once exported as far as Rangoon, he informs.
Yet, the decline has been stark. A time had come when reduced sales and lack of visibility impacted both traders and artisans, forcing many to leave the profession and choose greener pastures. This is where new interventions were planned. Inspired by inputs from institutions like the National Institute of Fashion Technology, efforts are underway to improve fabric quality, diversify designs and engage young designers through competitions and workshops. Early results suggest a renewed curiosity, with youth experimenting and creating fresh designs in Berhampur silk.
Berhampur Mayor Sanghamitra Dalei says the city’s identity is deeply tied to its silk legacy. “Berhampur silk is not limited to Odisha, rather it has a global presence. Today, models are proudly wearing it on different platforms,” she says, adding that steps are being taken in coordination with state and central governments to further promote it.
Outlining a roadmap focused on sustainability, Ganjam Collector V. Keerthivasan said, "We intend to set up dedicated training centres, introduce advanced weaving techniques and improve productivity. With new methods, a single artisan can operate a loom more efficiently, which can potentially double the income,” he noted. There are also proposals to provide housing support for landless weaver families and create experience centres where tourists can interact with artisans and purchase products directly.
Now if you take a look back at the lanes of Berhampur, the shift is visible, though subtly. What was once seen as fading is now being reimagined, not just as fabric, but as an identity. Culture enthusiasts are hopeful that between tradition and reinvention, Berhampur silk will eventually weave its way back into relevance.
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