Ananthapur: ‘Soft whitish like jasmine’, ‘relief from the summer heat’, ‘warm embrace in winters’—all these metaphors come to mind when one thinks of 'Ponduru Khaddar' (or Khadi). An epitome of royalty, this fabric has emerged as the darling of many prominent persons, including political leaders and film stars.
Once a proud heritage of Srikakulam, Ponduru Khaddar weaving is now flourishing in the Anantapur district of Andhra Pradesh as well, providing a livelihood to underprivileged women and reviving the traditional craft.
A few decades ago, everyone in the country used to spin yarn and make clothes. After the arrival of the British, other types of clothes also became popular. However, the new generation is again looking for natural khadi clothes, despite the many types of clothes in the market, for reasons such as health and love for the environment.
‘Timbuktu Collective’ has noticed this trend and selected women in villages in Chennekothapalli mandal of Anantapur district and gave them the project of weaving ‘Ponduru Khaddar’, which has been continuing since 2007. Most of these women are either poor or ridiculed in society amid difficult situations.
In 2011, these women formed the Timbuktu Bhavani Handloom Association after training. Now, they make cotton products on looms using raw yarn, natural dyes, and eco-friendly methods.
They also weave sarees, shirts, blankets, and panchas and sell them under the label ‘Timbuktu Weaves’, while representatives of the Timbuktu Collective are constantly educating them on the designing and marketing.
Making the difference
The required raw yarn is brought from Ponduru; it is cleaned in various ways and dyed with natural dyes made from trees, nuts, fruits, leaves, and barks. After that, the cloth is woven on a loom and made into fabric.
Special clothes, towels, and blankets are made for children with disabilities and are sold by the women of the association by setting up stalls in various towns and cities. Women take care of everything from importing the raw yarn to selling the clothes.
Rajeshwari, a member of the association, said that she had previously gone to agricultural work, but it was not giving the family enough to make ends meet.
“In 2017, I joined the handloom association; someone known to me. The representatives of Timbuktu not only taught me how to work but also gave me self-confidence,” she told ETV Bharat.
“I am now able to send my children to school. It feels great to see all the women working together,” she said.
Another member, Chandrakala, said that they used to go for daily work, but it was difficult to support the family on days when there was no work.
“Now I am earning Rs. 13500 per month as a weaver with Timbuktu Collective. I am not only manufacturing clothes but also marketing them myself without intermediaries,” she said.
Chandrakala said that everyone is equal at the organisation, as there is room for differences of opinion.
Gauri S Kumar, Timbaktu Bhavani Handloom Society, said that earlier, Khadi fabric was all people needed for clothes, but there are many types of clothes available at low prices. “However, no matter how many, the benefits of traditional clothes are different. We are making clothes from natural materials. It provides health to those who wear it and employment to those who make it,” she said and expressed pride in their work.
Read More
