Ajmer: If you thought Ajmer is all about spiritual aura and religious tourism because of the Dargah Sharif, stroll across the streets and you realise there is more to the city than fills the air - the unmistakable aroma of Kadhi Kachori. Crispy, spicy and tangy, and an usual breakfast in this part of the country, it is not only a local favourite, but has become the insignia of Ajmer's culinary specialties.
A staple food in Ajmer and the neighboring Beawar district, every day lakhs of Kadhi Kachoris are sold and consumed by people from daybreak till late in the evening. For people in Ajmer, it is like a constant comfort food and also a special dish that is served to the guests. The delectable delicacy is probably the only dish that has travelled from home to street food carts to the menu of high profile weddings.
It is pertinent to mention here that Ajmer's Kadhi Kachori made it to the wedding of Ambanis which was presented and served by the Joshi family from the city.
The Joshi family leads the culinary specialty in the city for the past 35 years. Their Manji’s Kachori cart in Naya Bazar, is considered a synonym for the Kadhi Kachori. In the last three decades or more, this outlet has grown into an empire. What began as a small food cart by Prashant Joshi’s grandfather 35 years ago, now runs across multiple outlets. Yet, the original cart still retains its position and is the hot favourite among the locals, who crowd the place from morning 6.15 am.
“We have four shops but the cart started by our grandfather remains the most visited place for Kadhi Kachori. Even today, people prefer eating at the cart. Maybe because it is connected to a tradition or a sense of nostalgia. Taste, we do not think will be different, but it is completely a consumer's choice," says Prashant Joshi with a smile. Ask him about the secret of his success? Consistency, he says. “We have never compromised on quality nor we will. We still grind our own masalas at home and prepare the dish with the trusted ingredients,” he quickly adds.
For Prashant, his customers vary from local foodies to celebrities like Sachin Tendulkar, Vasundhara Raje, and also the Ambanis. "For me celebrities come only because the food is loved by the local people. It is their love for the dish that has taken Kadhi Kachori to places. This is therefore not just a food item but Ajmer’s identity,” says Prashant with a sense of pride.
Different from the kadhi served in north India where dahi plays a big role, Ajmer's Kadhi skips the dairy totally. It is a thicker, spicier gravy made from gram flour (besan), water, and a blend of hand-pounded spices. Neither of the ingredients needs fermentation nor does any of it have sourness. The flavour of Ajmer's Kadhi is thus bold and bursts with flavours.
Manish Joshi, Prashant’s uncle, further explains how the Kadhi creates the feeling of curd though it is not used at all. “People are so used to dahi kadhi that they feel we too use curd. But our process is different and unique and we play with the special spice blend which is cooked slow. That gives it the character. Usually the Kadhi we serve is also consumed by locals to warm up especially during winters. They sip it slow and enjoy," .
But wait, the serving part is tempting. The kachori is fried and stuffed with a spiced lentil mix which is boiled and broken into pieces. Hot kadhi is poured generously on the Kachori, and dry mango chutney and green chutney are drizzled over it. The entire Kachori is filled and then garnished with chopped coriander. On humid days, a dash of lemon juice gives it a refreshing edge.
A few lanes away from Joshis, another family continues to be a popular eatery that also continues the Kadhi Kachori legacy. Ashutosh Sharma, a fourth-generation businessman near Gol Pyaau, says his great-grandfather Mahadev Sharma introduced the dish to Ajmer after getting trained in Kolkata. "He spent two years learning how to run a breakfast business in Kolkata. When he returned to Ajmer, he tried giving the dish a fusion which was never existent. He paired Kachori with a Rajasthani-style Kadhi. And this innovation clicked to such an extent that generations later, today, his family continues the tradition with pride,” Ashutosh says.
The busiest place in the locality, Kachoris and Kadhis are made in large scale. “Our clients include a large number of tourists as much as locals. I do not think any tourist who has visited Ajmer has not come to our stall to taste the delicacy at least once,” he says.
By rough estimates, about 3,000 small and big shops in the Ajmer-Beawar region, are into the Kadhi Kachori business. “With the consumption rising, the business today is massive,” says Ashutosh.
Rachna, a young woman visiting from Makrana, says it is like a family ritual to visit the place and have Kadhi Kachori. “My mother and I make it a point to stop and relish Kadhi Kachori every time we visit Ajmer. It is spicy and irresistible. Our memories are attached to the dish," she says.
Another local resident Prem Singh Rajawat said other than being the identity of the city, it is more like an addiction for the local people. "We cannot do without Kadhi Kachori. There is the tendency to have one and then ask for another,” he adds.
So if you wish to taste the love and hospitality in Ajmer, taste Kadhi Kachori. You not only consume something distinctive but make tryst with history and create your own memory of the dish that tickles taste buds for a long time.
Read More
