Sequins And Sustainability, Lakmé Fashion Week’s October Edition Had Both In Full Measure
This was a season where the runway was a mood board for everything India’s fashion designers have been perfecting: innovation, restraint, storytelling, and sustainability.
Published : October 13, 2025 at 5:22 PM IST
If you were anywhere near The Grand in Delhi's Vasant Kunj this past week and didn’t hear the collective sound of sequins shimmering and sustainability slogans echoing through the air, you’ve achieved what the rest of us could not: resistance to fashion week FOMO.
The October 2025 edition of Lakmé Fashion Week x FDCI wrapped up on October 12, and let’s just say it was less of a “week” and more of a five-day TED Talk on how Indian fashion is now officially living in the future but still insists on doing it in handcrafted juttis.
Broader Trends
The broader trends emerging from this season were clear: sustainability isn’t a buzzword anymore; it’s the dress code. Designers used recycled materials, ethical production, and upcycled textiles not as gimmicks but as creative ammunition. Gender-neutral silhouettes, modular dressing, and AI-assisted textile innovation also took centre stage—because apparently, even your lehenga now needs a software update. But what made this Lakmé Fashion Week special wasn’t just the sustainability sermon—it was how easy the designers made it look. Eco-consciousness with glamour? Check. Tailoring that hugs without suffocating? Check. Tech fabrics that feel like air but photograph like velvet? Double check.
Even the décor across shows nodded to India’s cultural renaissance: modern minimalism with desi maximalism at its heart. Think marigolds reimagined as pixel art, rangolis meeting resin, and runways that looked like someone had whispered “heritage, but make it hybrid.”
Lakmē Salon, in collaboration with designer duo Mohit Rai and Ridhi Bansal of ITRH gave a glittering ode to bridal glamour with Noor – A Signature Bridal Collection. The showcase was a love letter to Indian craftsmanship with ITRH’s signature maximalism. Tabu as showstopper was the icing on the cake.
Ashish N Soni
If Wes Anderson ever decided to design a tuxedo, it would probably look like Ashish N Soni’s new collection, The Soiree at the Grand Budapest Hotel. Except in Soni’s world, the symmetry is stitched, not storyboarded.
Partnering with Reliance Industries’ R|Elan™, the collection was an ode to elegance that didn’t need to shout. It whispered in perfectly cut black suits, sculpted shoulders, and gowns so fluid they could have been poured onto the models. The fabrics (GreenGold, Kooltex, FeelFresh) sound like names of futuristic energy drinks, but they’re actually planet-friendly textiles that breathe, drape, and move like couture with a conscience. Ashish described his collection as “architecture in motion,” and you could see that; especially in the women’s cinched waists that suggested power, and men’s comfy wide-leg trousers.
Pankaj & Nidhi – Araquis
If you like your eveningwear to feel like you’re about to slay in a sci-fi epic, this was your moment. Their Araquis collection was all about “warrior elegance” — think sculpted golden bodices, architectural shoulders, and metallic textures that shimmered like molten armour. Mrunal Thakur walked the finale, clad in a sculpted golden bodice plus a slit that said, “Yes, I can look regal and move.” It was elegance with crunch.
Satya Paul and Abraham & Thakore
Satya Paul brought softness, florals, hand-painted silk sarees — serene, pastel prints, the kind of look that says “nature retreat but make it runway.” Aditi Rao Hydari, as showstopper, embodied that mood perfectly.
Abraham & Thakore went bold: cut-up plastics, sequins from repurposed stuff, patchwork, nautical sailor stripes, artisan textures. Their show was innovation flirting with chaos — and it worked. It suggested that sustainable / upcycled isn’t just for niche eco-brands; it can look decadent.
Gauri & Nainika
For their Mothercare collab, Gauri & Nainika brought back unapologetic old-school glamour, the kind that belongs in champagne ads and Marilyn Monroe fan clubs. Their collection was a love letter to structured femininity—nipped waists, giant bows, and satin gowns. It was retro without being costume-y, romantic without veering into bridal territory. Think ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s’ meets ‘Barbie Gets a Master’s in Political Science.’
Aseem Kapoor's Akaar Collection
And for those who prefer their fashion with a little mysticism, Aseem Kapoor delivered a spiritual boho fever dream. His collection danced to the rhythm of block prints, crushed silks, and mirror work, layered like pages from a traveller’s diary. The palette moved between indigo, turmeric, and clay—earthy, nomadic, and impossible not to touch. Kapoor’s ensembles spoke of freedom, festivals, and faraway lands where every thread tells a story. It was the thinking woman’s boho look.
Circular Design Challenge
Welcome to the R|Elan™ Circular Design Challenge, fashion’s answer to Shark Tank, where sustainability meets imagination and everyone’s wearing biodegradable pride. This year’s winner, Crcle, led by Varshne B, made waves with multifunctional garments crafted from Weganool, banana leather, and even stainless steel scraps.
The Runner-up, Golden Feathers, meanwhile, said: “What if waste could wear couture?” and then proceeded to turn butchery chicken waste into natural fibre. Yes, it sounds gross until you realise the result looks better than anything you’ve worn to a sangeet. Their 27-step natural sanitisation process creates an eco-friendly textile that’s replacing water-intensive cotton and plastic-laced synthetics. Together, these two labels are proof that the future of fashion might smell faintly of innovation and zero guilt. The CDC stage, in partnership with the UN in India, was less about luxury as status and more about luxury as stewardship.
Tarun Tahiliani’s Tasva
If Ashish Soni’s runway was a champagne toast, Tarun’s was a warm glass of cardamom chai served in crystal. His partnership with Aditya Birla Fashion & Retail has turned Tasva into the kind of brand that redefines men’s festive wear... one that feels luxurious but not suffocating. The new collection was all silk blends, zardozi, pearls, mirrorwork, and the occasional “I could totally cook in this,” as Chef Ranveer Brar famously quipped while walking the ramp in his bandhgala.
The colour palette moved between soft ivories, earthy taupes, and dusky salmons... basically every shade that says “I’m understated, but I could still own this hotel.” Paisleys, Toile de Jouy, and lippan art turned into visual poetry.
Read more:
- Lakmé Fashion Week 2025 Days 1 & 2 Were About Flourishes And Fabulous Facepalms
- The Hidden Power of Gold: Why Earrings Can Make You Feel Better, Not Just Look Better
- Celebrity Wedding Designer Ambika Gupta On How Indian Weddings Are Turning Into Theatrical Experiences And Becoming More Personal And Meaningful
